How to Make a Simple, Single-Sheet Zine

Single sheet zines - step oneThere are as many ways to create, modify & embellish a single-sheet zine as there are artists.

How to Create a Single-Sheet Zine

Here’s a very simple way to create one:

1. Take any white sheet of paper.  Pull one out of your desktop printer, or rip one out of a notebook.  (Think of the lines as pinstripes!)

2. Fold the paper in half.  Most people fold it so it becomes a four-page zine, with each page being 8.5″ tall and 5.5″ wide, but anything’s possible. (Here’s a sample you can download and print: Free Zine #1.)

Single sheet zines - how to make them
3. Write and draw (and create other art) on each page, until it’s full.  (Alternative: Create your zine, digitally, and then print it.)

Single sheet zines - the layout and design4. Flatten the sheet so you can photocopy (or scan) it.

5. Print copies, two-sided (back to back), and fold them.  (Optional: Embellish by hand.)

Next, Share Your Zines!

Mail copies of your zines, sell them (at your site or Etsy, for example) or give them to others, sharing your ideas and artwork!

Single sheet zines - print and share
(If you live in a city, especially one with a student neighborhood, go hand some zines out and watch people blink in amazement.  They’re used to advertising flyers, etc., not actual gifts of art & inspiration.)

If you want to make and share zines, this is a great start, and one of the simplest ways to make your own zines.

Want to see a more complex zine? Print (free) the 24-Hour Zine Thing zine.

Single-Sheet Zine Layout – Expanded

Single-sheet zines can be easy or complex.  In my earlier article, Single-sheet Zine Design – Basics, I showed one of the simpler ways to create a zine.

Now, let’s talk about a more complex approach… that still uses a single sheet of paper.

But first, a little history:

In 1977, I published my first zine. It was one piece of paper, photocopied, folded, and sent out with someone’s name & address written on the outside, with a stamp.

In time, I graduated to two or three sheets of paper, and I started embellishing my zines with rubber stamps and glitter. Each one was hand-decorated.

Then, I began experimenting with artistamps (faux postage that I created for my imaginary country) and other forms of mailart.

Since then, I’ve tried nearly every possible zine format, from paper to fabric to zines-on-CDs to… well, lots of stuff.

So, if you have a question about zines, I can probably answer it or point you in the direction of someone else who can.

From what I’ve seen, the majority of people who swap or sell zines take a bunch of letter-sized printed pages (8 1/2″ x 11″) and fold them in half. Each sheet of paper is four pages of the zine.

Here’s how a single-sheet zine would look:

Single sheet zines - the layout and design

See? This can be really easy!

You can print a free zine — a variation of the single-page zine — at Free Zine #1.  (Warning: I wrote that around 2002, and included several topics that were popular/trendy at the time.  If the mention of Feng Shui offends you, skip that link.)

Zine sizes can vary.

An average zine (major oxymoron!) is five to 15 sheets of paper, meaning 20 to 60 pages. Those are the ones you’ll see at art- and zine-related shops, where you can purchase zines.

However, most zines are at the small end of that figure.  Many of them are just a sheet or two of paper, printed (and sometimes cut) and folded/stapled to make a zine.

Once you’ve made a few classic, single-sheet zines, you may want to try something more complex.

The Classic, 16-Page Zine from a Single, Legal-Sized Sheet of Paper

If you’re a purist or on a strict budget, you may love this: It’s a 16-page zine created with one sheet of legal-sized paper, period.

I don’t count the cover as a “page” when I number my zine pages, so my own version of this is 12 pages plus an outside cover & inside covers. Here’s how it fits on the paper:

16-page zine

Cut on the solid lines and fold on the dotted lines.

Staple in the center. One staple is usually enough.

One stamp on the envelope is enough to mail one of these zines.  (You can tuck them in with bill payments, notes to friends, birthday and holiday greeting cards, and so on.)

You can also scan your zine, uncut, and put it online so others can print their own copy, cut & assemble it. Easy!

This zine won’t hold much info unless you write small enough for a magnifying glass, or you find clever ways to expand the available space, such as adding fold-out pages & stuff.

However, this 16-pages-from-one-sheet-of-legal-paper is generally regarded as the classic zine, if we’re talking all kinds of zines, including poetry, fanzines, perzines (personal zines), and so on.

Zines Know No Limits!

There are many other ways to make zines. Look at books about making handmade books, for the best inspiration.

The concept is the same, but zines are usually smaller & more informal, that’s all.

If you want to create a zine that’s a work of art, that’s fine.

If you want to get wild & crazy with design, have fun with it!

Remember that a zine can be one piece of paper, b&w, printed on both sides, and folded in half. That’s a four-page zine.  I have several in my collection, and I think some of the simpler ones are better than a few larger ones I’ve seen.

So, put your art & soul into your zine, and don’t worry about the size or technical stuff.  I love almost every zine I see; size and expertise often have nothing to do with how enthusiastic I am about a zine.

What to Do with Zines

If you’ve wanted to create a zine for fun, just do it!

Give them to friends.  Sell them (at your website or Etsy, for example).  Hand them out on the street or at school.

Or, you can join a zine swap or launch your own, on- or offline.  They can be tremendous.

In addition, if you swap, you’ll receive fabulous zines that you might never see if you hadn’t swapped.

You can approach local artsy stores, gaming stores, etc., to consign (or outright sell) your zines

To learn more about zines (and download some freebies) at this website, see my articles with the Zines tag.

Zine-related links (at other people’s websites – they open in a new window)

  • Zines101.pdf – Some basics and suggestions, not just about art zines.
  • Wikipedia: Zines – So much information, it’ll make your eyes glaze over or your pulse race… or both.
  • Zine Resources – from Underground Press.  Useful & worth bookmarking or sharing.

Zine update – Sketchcrawl theme

[This was for a March 2010 artzine. Obviously, submissions are no longer accepted.] After considering various topics for my first/continuing zine issue, I’ve decided to make it about sketchcrawls.  (If you’re not sure what a “sketchcrawl” is, visit Sketchcrawl.com or see my examples at this website.)

So, I’m looking for articles and sketch samples — in b&w, or color images that also look good in b&w — for this zine.  Every contributor selected for this issue will receive a free copy of the zine, in the mail.

Your article can…

  • Describe a sketchcrawl you’ve been on, with sample sketches.
  • Share art tips for a successful sketchcrawl (or travel journal), such as how to deal with wet media.
  • Offer ideas to make a full-day sketchcrawl fun, such as ways to avoid blisters or tiredness, what snacks to bring, and how to cope with crowds.

Articles should be a single 8.5″ x 11″ page, unless there’s a really good reason to make it longer.  (Two pages are the max… ask me, first.)  If it’s easier to make your page 8″ x 10″, that’s okay, too.

The articles should be sent to me in PDF format.

The best way to do this is to write the article in DOC format, in Microsoft Word or in Open Office, or something like that.

Please use 1″ margins on all four sides of each page.  Use a standard font that came with your computer.  (If you’re not sure what’s “standard,” use this list:  Common fonts…)  The font size should be between 10 and 14 pt, though the headline can be up to 18 pt.

Scans of your artwork should be at 300 dpi, but no less than 150 dpi, and they should be part of the PDF, not separate.

Be sure to include your name and your website URL (or Flickr account URL) on the page, so people can find you and your art, online.

Then, save it (or “print” it) as a PDF.

The first sketchcrawl of 2010 is February 27th… now you have another good reason to get out and sketch on that day!

My current plan is to publish this zine in March 2010.  February has sort of flown past me, as my mom –  also an artist – was hospitalized. Of course, that’s upset me, and has affected my schedule.

The Return of the Zine

schoolglueThis is from my archives, when I sent “creative somethings” (including zines) to my subscribers.

Recently, I’ve been thinking of restarting this project, perhaps through Patreon. If that sounds interesting to you, let me know.


The zines are returning in 2010.

They’ll be in three versions:

1. Paper copies (“old school” b&w) for previous subscribers.

2. B&w digital copies – free or very inexpensive downloads

3. Digital copies in color – downloads available for a fee to cover bandwidth

The first/new issue

If you’d like to be included in the first zine — the theme is sketchcrawls, so anything related to that is fine — see that page for details.

This first issue will be 8.5″ x 11″ pages… letter size.

Stay tuned for news about the issues that will follow.

What’s ahead

In the future, I may be interested in half-sheet articles (8.5″ x 5.5″) with color illustrations that will also look okay in b&w.   I need graphics at 150 dpi or better.  (If you have no idea what that means, just send me a photo.  Most digital cameras take pictures large enough to print well.)

For later issues, I’ll be especially interested in:

– Journal pages
– Gluebook pages
– Sketchcrawl examples
– Dolls/figures: cloth and assemblage
– Shrines & mini-shrines
– ATCs and ACEOs  (artist’s trading cards – including art cards editions & originals)
– Fabric art (quilts, wearables, etc.)

I’m planning to focus on paper & fiber arts, and perhaps some fine art (watercolors & oil painting) and dimensional work… but mostly paper & fiber arts.

I’m interested in art-related topics, too, particularly about being organized as an artist.

In addition, since this is primarily intended as an “old school” style of zine, I’m interested in anything with a vintage or antique theme related to arts & crafts.  Funky fun or serious re-enactors’ stuff… I’m very interested.

Keep it “office safe”

All art and text should be “office safe” (that is, if your boss catches you looking at the zine online, during a break, he/she won’t sputter and raise an eyebrow).

Avoid religious & political controversy, too.  (Yes, I’m passionate about both, but I want this zine to encourage creativity, not turn people off because they shift into left-brain mode over some statement-as-art.)

Please don’t think your work “isn’t good enough.”  Generally, I prefer art (visual, written, photos, music) that is raw and unpolished.  When it gets too polished, it’s a yawn for me.  So, send it anyway.

You’ll receive a free paper (b&w) copy of the zine with your work in it, and the digital downloads, free, as well.

Past subscribers

If you’re a past subscriber to my zines or “creative somethings”, please update your address at this form. [Link]

Important: That request is ONLY for people who were paid subscribers in the past.  This is NOT a freebie.

In late February 2010, I’ll be sending out postcards to previous subscribers, to confirm your postal (snail mail) address.

Zine Layouts

I published my first zine in 1977. It was one piece of paper, printed on one or two sides, folded, stamped, and sent out with someone’s name & address written on the outside.

In time, I graduated to two or three sheets of paper, and I started rubber stamping & glittering my zines. Yes, each one was hand-decorated.

Since then, I’ve explored nearly every possible variation on the zine theme: Color and b&w; on 8 1/2″ x 17″ paper, and on a single 8 1/2″ x 11″ sheet, folded in half; and so on.

From what I’ve seen, the majority of people who create homegrown zines use letter-sized printed pages (8 1/2″ x 11″) and fold them in half. Each sheet of paper is four pages of the zine.

An average zine (and believe me, that’s an oxymoron!) is five to 15 sheets of paper, meaning 20 to 60 pages.

In swaps, most zines are at the small end of that figure.

In fact, plenty of them are just a sheet or two of paper.  They’re printed or photocopied (and sometimes cut).  Then they’re folded, and usually stapled to make a zine.

The classic zine design is funky. If you’re a purist, you’ll love this. If you’re on a budget, you’ll also love this: It’s a 16-page zine created with one sheet of legal-sized paper, period.

I don’t count the cover as a “page” when I number my zine pages, so my own version of this is 12 pages plus an outside cover & inside covers. Here’s how it fits on the paper:

sketch of a 12-page zine created from one sheet of paper

Cut on the solid lines and fold on the dotted lines.

Staple in the center. One staple is usually enough.

One stamp on the envelope is enough to mail one of these zines. You can tuck them in with your bill payments, with your notes to friends, with your swaps, with your orders to catalogues, and so on!

You can also scan your zine, uncut, and put it online so others can print their own copy, cut & assemble it. Easy!

But, it won’t hold much info unless you write small enough for a magnifying glass, or you find clever ways to expand the available space, such as adding fold-out pages & stuff.

That said, the 16-pages-from-one-sheet-of-legal-paper is regarded as a classic zine, if we’re talking about all kinds of zines, including poetry, fanzines, and so on.

Oh, sure, there are other ways to make zines. Look at books about making handmade books, for the best inspiration.

The concept is the same, but zines are usually smaller & more informal, that’s all.

If you want to create a zine that’s a work of art, that’s fine. If you want to get wild & crazy with design, that’s fine too.

However, keep in mind that a zine can be one piece of paper, b&w, printed on both sides, and folded in half. And that’s a four-page zine.

Some of these single-page zines are still in my collection.  By contrast, I haven’t kept some larger zines, though they were lovely to look at and filled with wonderful sentiments.

So, put your art & soul into your zine, and don’t worry about the size or technical stuff.

I love almost every zine I see.  Size, expertise, and visual quality often have nothing to do with how enthusiastic I am about a zine!

What I’m saying is: If you’ve wanted to create a zine for fun, or just to see what it’s like to make one, just do it!

The bonus is, if you swap your zines with others, you’ll receive fabulous zines in return, which you might never see if you hadn’t swapped.

Zine Basics

For years, I was the list moderator for the botmzines group/list at Yahoo!Groups, I decided to throw together some pages about zines.

For starters, the “botmzines” name came from the group that inspired it, the Book Of The Month list… BOTM. So, although botmzines swaps aren’t on any specific calendar, the group started with that name and so it remains.

With that bit of trivia out of the way, let’s discuss zines!

Schedules

First of all, if you want something that is published on time, and is proofread, has high-quality graphics and writing, and generally sticks to the theme it had when you subscribed to it… subscribe to a magazine. You know, like Time, or Newsweek.

Zines are published on whim. Oh, sure, some people manage to write right-brained zines on a left-brained schedule. My hat is off to them. I have no idea how they manage it.

For fun, not profit

Zines are labors of love. We don’t make money on them, or if we manage to show a profit on one issue, we go crazy writing & re-writing the next issue, including color pages or something, and–bingo–we’re back in the red again. In other words, zines are not a way to make a living. Or even pick up some extra spending money. For most of us, zines cost money to produce but we love ’em anyway.

Zines are fun in a way that can’t be put into words. If you’re driven to create them, you’ll get a sense of satisfaction (and some angst) when you complete one and it’s in the mail to others.

Receiving a zine can be… well, I hate to say ‘better than chocolate’ because that’s such a cliche, and very personal.

That said, when a zine is cool, there aren’t enough superlatives for it. When a zine is weird, it’s truly out there… and usually fascinating, as well.

It’s often a love/hate thing.

There are almost NO generalities that can be made about zines, so let me tell you about my own eccentricities:

They make me crazy, but I love them anyway. And I love having zines to swap so I can get others’ zines.

My zines are published at odd times, vaguely quarterly. They bear a variety of names, also whim-based. They may be half-pages (printed on 8 1/2″ x 11″ paper, folded in half), or bigger, or even smaller. Some have cardstock covers, but most are all on the same kind of paper (and color) that came out of the photocopy machine.

Most of my zines are b&w. Most of them are loosely related to art, especially paper arts. Most are a mix of printed text, scribbled-in notes, and my own graphics.

Generally, after six months or so, I lose track of when people’s subscriptions started, so I close down new orders for awhile, and send out more than the subscription’s worth of copies (meaning that early subscribers can end up with two or more times the number of issues that they ordered). And then I start up again.

(Yes, that’s embarrassing. It’s also not unusual among people who create art zines.)

Generally, I make zines when I receive someone else’s zine and my batteries get recharged.

Why people create zines

From the classic guide to zine-making, Zine Scene: The Do It Yourself Guide to Zines, by Francesca Lia Block & Hillary Carlip:

“Tell your story… your obsessions, your fears, your dreams, in words and pics, because it is powerful, because it kicks, to express and connect, even if it’s not always pretty, cool, or slick.”

Also from Hillary Carlip, “Sometimes paper is the only thing that will listen to you.”

Worried about how it will look? Here’s another quote from Zine Scene:

“Who knows what Baroque pearls and sizzling diamonds of content lie buried in the impossibly small print, or floppity-sloppity-scrawly handwriting of a rough-to-read zine?”

In other words, say whatever you want to, and don’t worry about how it looks.

Or… go crazy with how it looks and forget about saying anything overtly pithy.

Either one works–or both!

Recommended reading, online

There’s so much good zine info online, I’m not sure why I even create webpages about them. Seriously. The same people who compulsively make zines, keep rolling along with enthusiasm and tell you all about them, online.

My favorite resources & inspirations, offline

  • Others’ zines. Plain & simple. Get your hands on as many as you can. The easiest way is to swap! You can swap through the botmzines list at Yahoo!Groups, linked above.
  • The Garage, Issue No. 2, published by Diane Moline. As far as I know, Diane makes her zines in very small numbers, and only for swaps. I’m thrilled to own two copies of The Garage.
  • Dog Eared Magazine, Issue Five, about Zines. For more info, see dogearedmagazine.com
  • Zine Scene: The Do It Yourself Guide to Zines, a book by Francesca Lia Block and Hillary Carlip. It’s considered a classic. When I checked in mid-2006, it had been out of print for awhile.  If you see a copy, old or new, snag it if you’re serious about zines.

Resizing Your Art for Artistamps

3sun-ibQ: I want to make some artistamps by hand, not necessarily on the computer. How do I make my art the right size for stamps? Should I be creating the art in stamp size, to start with?

A: Most commercial artists work much larger than the finished, printed product will be. For example, a standard paperback book cover was often a poster-size painting.

When the image is reduced to the correct size, there will be impressive detail in it without a lot of microscopic work in the first place.

When you’re creating stamps, or any reduced-size art, there are several ways to work:

    Work to size

    Obviously, you can create the work in the size it should be when completed. This is fine for carved stamps, one-of-a-kind work, and so on. However, if you’re working off the computer, or want a lot of detail, this is the difficult way to do things.

    Work larger, then reduce at the photocopy machine

    Create the images you want, in a larger size. Try to work in a size that can at least fit on the glass of the copy machine.

    If your art fills a standard letter-size sheet of paper, and your finished stamp will be less than one inch square, you’re probably including more detail than you need to.

    Next, use the photocopier’s reducing option, until the image is the size that you want. That is, if you’re working h-u-g-e, reduce the image to the smallest size the machine permits, then reduce that copy to the size you need.

    If you’re using a color copier, this can get expensive as you use trial-and-error to achieve the correct size. Experiment with a regular (cheaper) photocopier first. Make note of the percentages you used to reduce to the ideal size.

    Once you’ve figured out what percentage of reduction looks best, switch to the color copier, enter the correct reduction percentage, and print your final work.

    Work larger, and reduce with your computer graphics program

    If you’re using your own color printer, this is one of the best choices.

    Basically, scan your work with your computer scanner, then use your graphics program to reduce the image to the finished size. Repeat the image for a full sheet.

    (Some programs call this “tiling,” others–including Adobe–use words such as “pattern.” You can learn how to do this at my article, How to make a sheet of stamps, with Adobe Photoshop.)

    Finally, print it on your printer.

    If you don’t have your own color printer, many larger copy shops (for example, some FedEx/Kinko’s shops) have computers and color printers for customers to use, for a small fee. Bring them a disk of your completed work, and print it on their printer.

    Work larger in b&w, adding color to the correct-size image

    You can avoid the color issue altogether by designing black and white artistamps. However, if you want colored artistamps and the previous methods won’t work for you, there are alternatives.

    Create the black-and-white line work in a larger format.

    Then, reduce it with a b&w photocopier, and tile with repeated copies, as necessary.

    Hand-color the image/s.

    Finally, either use those as stamps, or visit a copy shop with a color copier, and make multiple photocopies for use as stamps.

No doubt there are other ways to accomplish your goal, but these are among the most popular.

There is no point in using a magnifying glass and a three-haired paintbrush to create eensy-weensy images for the stamps. Work big and bold, and then reduce the images for the best results.

When I work larger for any purpose, I always work at least 33% bigger than the final image, for the best impression of detail in the finished product.

How to make a Sheet of Artistamps with Adobe PhotoShop

If you’re new to Adobe’s PhotoShop program, it can be overwhelming to figure out all the fabulous bells & whistles it offers. However, it’s a wonderful tool for artistamps!

When I wrote this article around 2002, I was using Adobe 5.0. The commands may vary slightly if you’re using a different version, but the concepts remain the same.

If you have an image that you’ve created with (or scanned into) Adobe, here are the steps to repeat it easily, so the image fills a page of artistamps when you print it:

1. Select the image you want to use. This means it should be surrounded by dotted lines indicating that the Adobe program has “selected” it. If you don’t know how to do this, go into Adobe’s Help menu and look up “selecting an area.”

2. Go into the Edit menu, select Define and then Define Pattern. (Some programs go directly to Define Pattern.) Your image is now saved in Adobe’s short-term memory.

3. Delete your original image, by clicking on the X on the image window, or you can just delete the layer with the image by using Layer–>Delete Layer.

4. Either enlarge that emply window/layer (if you merely deleted the layer) so the Image Size is slightly smaller than the paper you’ll be printing on –OR– (if you clicked on the X and removed the entire image) create a new image (File–>New) in that size.

I like to work with an image that’s about 7″ x 10″ for paper that’s 8.5″ x 11″.

5. Select the entire image/layer. You can do this by hitting Control-A, or by right clicking and choosing Select All.

6. Right click inside the new image/layer, select Fill and then choose Pattern. Your image, repeated to fill the new size, will appear. If you are happy with what you see, you’re ready to print.

7. If your new, repeated image isn’t tidy–and it usually isn’t–you’ll want to remove (crop) the partial images. Use your Select Area tool to surround all of the complete images. Then choose Image and Crop so the loose pieces vanish. Now you’re ready to print.

8. If you’re using nice (price-y) paper for your finished product, it’s a good idea to print a “proof” copy on plain (cheap) paper, to make certain the finished plate of stamps looks pleasing.

If positioning is key, you may want to print on tracing vellum first, lay it over the paper you’ll be using for the finished product, and see if it lines up okay.

9. After you’ve printed your stamps and are ready to close your Adobe program, save just ONE copy of the stamp image, using the Crop feature. You can save the entire repeated image if you like, but that can take up a lot of disk space if your hard drive is nearly full.

Cheatsheet version:

1. Select image area
2. Edit–>Define–>Pattern
3. Delete original image
4. Create new image in size to fit on printer paper
5. Right click to Select All
6. Right click inside area, choose Fill–>Pattern

tap-hammer-b

Real, Exotic and Foreign-looking Stamps

These are a few stamps from my own collection of inexpensive, international postage stamps. They are “real” stamps, used on mail.

I like them because they look exotic and/or old, and I gather ideas from them.

I’m providing them as inspiration. You can copy* them, tweak them with your own color and design ideas, or… well, you decide!

Want to see more cool and unusual stamps?

I recommend The Mystery Box, a philatelists’ site.

___

*No stamps at this site — “real” or artistamps — should be copied or used illegally.

Glues and Adhesives for Artistamps

Adhesive backing for artistamps

dw1-webIf you’re sending your artistamps for others to use, you probably want to make them as much like “real” postage as possible.

For example, you’ll want the recipient to be able to lick the back of the stamp so the glue becomes moist and will hold the stamp in place.

The following information was provided by members of the AML artistamp list.

These are your three most popular options for glues and adhesives, if you’re creating artistamps.

(1) Buy paper with an adhesive (water reactivated) backing.

You can get dry, gummed paper label paper from a chain store called Paper Plus. (I think this is a division of Unisource, but their demo catalogue doesn’t list any perforated papers.)

One brand in the late 1990s was Nashua Davac, Dry Gummed Label Paper, #7649, 50# offset, and it comes in 8.5″ x 11″ size, and others. (Manufactured by Nashua Label.)

Another resource might be a small quantity supplier of paper. Some of them are “green” paper companies. You can get more information at Conservatree.com.

If this sounds too complicated, you can have someone professionally print your artistamps on pre-gummed perforated paper.

I recommend Anna Banana’s Banana Productions. As you would expect, her work is very professional.  (The link to her site is broken.  If you know the best link for her products, let me know.)

WCP-NM (Olathe Poste) is another excellent online resource.

Or,

(2) Apply lickable (water reactivated) glue.

The glue stuff itself can be purchased and applied to any paper.

One kind of glue stuff is Neutral pH Adhesive, by Lineco. You’re looking for it as product number 901-1008. It’s carried by larger camera supply shops, as photographers use this to mount photos, etc.

You can also find this Neutral pH Adhesive by Lineco, at MisterArt.

Another glue stuff–that I use–is Lick & Stick. It comes in a bottle that looks like a roll-on deodorant, but it has a sponge on the top of it. I sort of paint it on the paper, and it dries. Most curling that occurs when it’s wet, flattens out as the glue dries. The glue is clear and tasteless.

You can order Lick & Stick at directly from the manufacturer, Greensneakers. They offer templates for other paper products, too.

Or,

(3) Make your own water reactivated glue.

See my article, Glue Recipes – Artistamps for a variety of homemade glues that you can mix and apply to your stamps.